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  • Mourned the death of my dreams
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  • I've made the move to Lake Illawarra but no longer have a garage to work in and unstable health will be holding me back for a while longer.
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  • Been bogged down The last month or so with health issues and preparing to move from Glen Innes to ShellHarbour, hope to get on top of it once I get settled.
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  •   Mick's Morganish 3 Wheeler commented on this post about 1 year ago
    Laid the boot into the 'Black Dog' and made a start to setting out my Morgan, got the lines onto the board ready to start cutting steel, positioned the steering rack and the seat so I could get an impression, the seat I bought isn't going to work for me - much too laid back and the steering column is about 18" too short. I can see how to do the...
    Laid the boot into the 'Black Dog' and made a start to setting out my Morgan, got the lines onto the board ready to start cutting steel, positioned the steering rack and the seat so I could get an impression, the seat I bought isn't going to work for me - much too laid back and the steering column is about 18" too short. I can see how to do the back wheel and drive. I'm a happy chappy.
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    • It'll be a cinch to extend that steering column - for example: by cutting the existing column and patching in the some pipe that has the same insideIt'll be a cinch to extend that steering column - for example: by cutting the existing column and patching in the some pipe that has the same inside diameter as the column outside diameter, which can be bolted or welded in place.

      Nothing like solving problems and making something take shape to get your mind in the right place!

      Simon
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    • Just gotta wait until I can work out the correct length
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  •   Geoff commented on this post about 1 year ago
    Steel finally delivered, time to make some space in the garage and break out the string line.
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    Comments (5)
    • Thinks .... "maybe I should have used string"!
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    • Simonism Twanging a chalked string on to a sheet of 5 ply makes a good layout line (if straight line will do) curves is a different story
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    • Can't wait to see how the build progresses. I'd love to build a 3 wheeler one day so I'm very interested in how you go about it.
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    • I'll post as much working sketches & photos, I've had to guess most of it but it's coming into focus slowly.
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    • Thanks Mick.
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  •   Mick's Morganish 3 Wheeler reacted to this post about 1 year ago
    Rear wheel arrived Thursday and I dropped it of for a tyre to be fitted. The steel has been delayed by the floods, the steel man hopes it will be able to get through this week.
    Starting to get a visualisation of a layout, would be so much easier to stick with what everyone else does but then it wouldn't be me.
    The seat I bought looks like its...
    Rear wheel arrived Thursday and I dropped it of for a tyre to be fitted. The steel has been delayed by the floods, the steel man hopes it will be able to get through this week.
    Starting to get a visualisation of a layout, would be so much easier to stick with what everyone else does but then it wouldn't be me.
    The seat I bought looks like its more suited to a street luge than a cyclekart, have to look for something that will give better support. It's amazing the way almost everyone selling on fleabay uses the same photo that hides the true shape.
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  •   Geoff reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    More parts delivered yesterday - steering rack, seat & harness. ‏ — feeling happy
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  •   Mick's Morganish 3 Wheeler commented on this post about 2 years ago
    Still trying to visualise the layout of the rear wheel, motor & trans. I can see it in the abstract but the details are still turning my head inside out.
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    • I struggled with this too. It'a s lot easier when you have the motor and torque converter and can lay it in the chassis. The Torque converter canI struggled with this too. It'a s lot easier when you have the motor and torque converter and can lay it in the chassis. The Torque converter can actually be bolted on in a few different orientations too so you can have the axle forward or behind the engine.

      This photo might help -  https://cyclekarts.com.au/pages/brooklands-bentley/photos/298-img-9144

      Also worth noting that here I've flipped the torque converter so that it faces backwards instead of forwards. It will actually get installed the other way around so that the engine is behind the axle. If you flick through the album there's a couple of other photos showing how the torque converter bolts up.
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    • (Mainline)Mick - here's another photo, in case it helps the imagination. This is where I'm up to - working it out as I go - no plans. You can see(Mainline)Mick - here's another photo, in case it helps the imagination. This is where I'm up to - working it out as I go - no plans. You can see how the base plate of the torque converter offers 12 different positions (not all of which may useable because parts of the engine could be fouled, eg, the tank). The black hatching marked on the base plate shows the strengthening ribs that I have to remove, to allow the chain to have a clear line from the output sprocket of the torque converter to my 60 tooth sprocket on the axle (plus I've taped up the bearing of the output shaft to stock crap going into it). Like Mick (I think?) I have yet to cut the keyways in my 25mm axle stock.
      Simon : Have fun!
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    • Thanks, the picture is building, rear suspension might just have to wait for version 2, between Mick and yourself I can see the simpler solution.
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    • Not sure how important the suspension is on a 3-wheeler and what impact it has on handling. Generally with 4 wheel cyclekart builds the rearNot sure how important the suspension is on a 3-wheeler and what impact it has on handling. Generally with 4 wheel cyclekart builds the rear suspension is omitted as being superfluous.

      Not sure how Morgan did theirs but obviously a bit different with the motor in the rear. I'm guessing they must have had some kind of trailing arm setup.

      Rear suspension could be as simple as mounting the entire engine + torque converter + wheel + axle on a subframe that pivots on the rear of the main chassis. Basically like a giant hinge in the chassis just forwards of the motor. Like a giant trailing arm that contains the motor too - much like a Vespa or Lambretta

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    • The vague idea I was trying to flesh out was along the lines of a pair of gears on the swing-arm pivot one side chain from motor and the other chainThe vague idea I was trying to flesh out was along the lines of a pair of gears on the swing-arm pivot one side chain from motor and the other chain to wheel hub. That would take better engineering skill than I have and be quite bulky, unsuspended axle is much more compact and simpler. I'll just have to put a bit more padding into the seat.
      Morgan appears to use a CV joint pivoting on the same plane as the swing-arm.
      Probably when I have a kart built I'll be better able to see a solution.
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  • mainlinemick likes a discussion post
    springs
    •   General
    •   Tuesday, 15 March 2022
    After a bit of a search I finally found and purchased some springs today from Northern Springworks in Gawler, South Australia, $45 each. dimensions 610mm centre to centre, 40mm wide, 6mm thick, 125 mm bow, with nylon bushes to suit 1/2 inch...
    After a bit of a search I finally found and purchased some springs today from Northern Springworks in Gawler, South Australia, $45 each. dimensions 610mm centre to centre, 40mm wide, 6mm thick, 125 mm bow, with nylon bushes to suit 1/2 inch bolts, see attached photo.
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  •   Mick reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    Spent all the grocery money on cyclekart parts again:
    Large Steering Wheel Rack Pinion Tie Rod Kit For Go Kart Buggy Hotrod Project AU $195.95
    Drift Trike Go Kart Buggy plastic Seat& 3 Point Seat Belt Harness AU $68.00
    9mtr 75x25 1/16 steel painted steel $93.00
    Cost to date $ 625.95

    Once this lot arrives I can start to work on the layout

    Decid...
    Spent all the grocery money on cyclekart parts again:
    Large Steering Wheel Rack Pinion Tie Rod Kit For Go Kart Buggy Hotrod Project AU $195.95
    Drift Trike Go Kart Buggy plastic Seat& 3 Point Seat Belt Harness AU $68.00
    9mtr 75x25 1/16 steel painted steel $93.00
    Cost to date $ 625.95

    Once this lot arrives I can start to work on the layout

    Decided on a Morgan like 3 Wheeler as an inspiration
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    Comments (4)
    • Looks like you're going to have the most accurate steering cyclekart with that rack & pinion set!
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    • Simonism About 40 years ago I had to drive a VW across Canberra with a loose steering box, ever since I have nightmares about it and have a fixationSimonism About 40 years ago I had to drive a VW across Canberra with a loose steering box, ever since I have nightmares about it and have a fixation about good steering and brakes.  More ...
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    • mainlinemick
      Yep, I can only imagine! But I've never seen a cyclekart in the flesh, and I also imagine they are inherently a bit skittish withmainlinemick
      Yep, I can only imagine! But I've never seen a cyclekart in the flesh, and I also imagine they are inherently a bit skittish with their steering. I've gone for 16" wheels (which seemed reasonable for my "80 to 85%-ish Austin 7 Ulster" inspiration) so I'm hoping that my go-kart style steering will be OK.
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    • Had to get something ready made and it wasn't too much more pricey than I could live with. The seat was the item I was uncertain about
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  •   Simonism reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    Ordered motor and torque converter from fleabay. Cost to date $270.
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  • mainlinemick updated his profile picture
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  •   mainlinemick commented on this post about 2 years ago
    Has anyone got some CAD drawing for the chassis, I showed pictures to a local engineer/steel shop and he said to come back when I know what I want.
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    • Hi Mick, there's some basic plans on the Tech page but those are hand drawn not CAD. There's also the following plans I downloaded fromHi Mick, there's some basic plans on the Tech page but those are hand drawn not CAD. There's also the following plans I downloaded from cyclekarts.com but they are only really an overview and not detailed CAD plans. There's some interpretation required for both of these as there's some details and dimensions missing and some dimensions may change depending on your body type / suspension design. It should be a good start though.  More ...
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    • I showed the images with scribble all over them that I got from the US cyclekart site. The 3 above are much better, I might even be able to get themI showed the images with scribble all over them that I got from the US cyclekart site. The 3 above are much better, I might even be able to get them into CAD files, if so I will share them here. many tanx mick in glen innes  More ...
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    • The one thing to consider is that the ones above were for a 'Model T' style body so I'm not sure if that means they are different in some way fromThe one thing to consider is that the ones above were for a 'Model T' style body so I'm not sure if that means they are different in some way from other body styles. Might be worthwhile comparing them to the ones you have just to be sure. I think that they are pretty generic and share similar wheelbase and track dimensions but I recall that when I made my chassis there were various differences between all of the plans that I could find online. I ended up tweaking them to suit my build.

      General consensus is to take a basic plan like those above or the Stevenson sketch (on the tech page) and then overlay your chosen body style over the top in photoshop or similar app to check how the features line up with things like engine and driver location. You can then adjust the design to suit.
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    • I'll worry about that in the fullness of time
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  •   Mick reacted to this post about 2 years ago
    Found a selling some CT90/110 wheels waiting for him to get back to me with a price delivered
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  • got my login fixed, chase some quotes for steel
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  • mainlinemick unlocked the badge Cyclekartiste
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