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Mick

  Registered Users Last seen online, 3 weeks ago
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    Really cool video about cyclekarts by eGarage which perfectly captures what cyclekarting is all about.
    Cyclekarts
    The cyclekart community is a small but widespread band of eccentric builders and racers. Centered around a love for creating, budget racing and having fun th...
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Recent Activities
  •   Mick commented on this post about 3 weeks ago
    Hi Mick. I am having some issues setting up my build page. It keeps saying my permalink is invalid. I am not sure what a valid permalink is. What is the hot tip for sorting this out. Thanks Rod
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    • Hi Rod. Sorry you are having trouble.

      The permalink is the address that points to your page. The permalink field that it asks for is essentiallyHi Rod. Sorry you are having trouble.

      The permalink is the address that points to your page. The permalink field that it asks for is essentially just the last part of the URL

      So for example on my page the URL is -  https://www.cyclekarts.com.au/build-pages/brooklands-bentley

      The permalink is just the last part - i.e. brooklands-bentley

      If it is saying that it is invalid it might be because it has invalid characters in the name. The name needs to be similar to a web address in that it cannot have any spaces or special characters, hence the dash instead of a space in my page name.

      Hope this helps.

      If you are still stuck let me know and I will try and figure it out for you.

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  • Mick liked the page, Toylander TL3
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  • Mick liked the page, MrBugatti Cyclekart project
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  • Managed to find a bit of time to finish off the rear hub and broach the keyway. The keyway is cut using a broach which runs in a guide inside the hub. I had to machine the guide to suit the hub diameter, then it was simply a case of pressing the...
    Managed to find a bit of time to finish off the rear hub and broach the keyway. The keyway is cut using a broach which runs in a guide inside the hub. I had to machine the guide to suit the hub diameter, then it was simply a case of pressing the broach through the hub using lots of cutting oil. The broach is spaced out on successive passes using shims until the final depth is achieved.

    Next job is to finish machining the rear axle. I have to mill a slot to accept the key and turn threads on the ends for the axle nuts.
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  • Mick replied to a discussion, DIY Leaf Springs
    I made some from mild steel and skipped the heat treating. Mild still has some spring to it but the elastic limit is nowhere near as much as for spring steel.

    https://cyclekarts.com.au/stream/item/202

    I haven't tested them yet but think they'll work okay, although they may be more cosmetic than functional.
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  • Mick likes a discussion post
    What does everyone think of these
    Screenshot_20201022-165421.png
    These look promising, for the cost I'll give them ago.
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  •   MrBugatti reacted to this post about 11 months ago
    Mick replied to a discussion, What does everyone think of these
    Yes, those are the ones I mentioned (or very similar.) There's definitely some of the US guys with those wheels on their carts. I think someone on the FB page might also have bought a set too. Shouldn't be too hard to get them fitted up.
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  • Mick replied to a discussion, Introductions
    Welcome aboard.

    If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to shout out. I've not finished mine yet but have worked though most of the tricky bits so feel free to give me a shout.

    The 'resources' section is also a good place to start for technical stuff. It's an 'in progress' kind of website but most of the info is there. Much of it is also borrowed from the guys in the US who have been at this for a while longer so much of what you read in the US forums is also applicable
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  • Mick replied to a discussion, Parts Sources
    I bought mine from gumtree, it took a while for some to pop up so I can only suggest that you might need to keep an eye open for them.

    Although with that said, there are also some new 17" wheels that the guys in the States have used that are available on ebay and come complete with tyres. I'm not 100% sure what's required to use these, but it's probably not to hard to figure out. They appear to be front wheels from a dirt bike as the tyres are a bit 'knobbly'.

    I can say that my 'cheap' gumtree wheels did not end up being so cheap once I had them powder-coated and some spokes fixed up so the initial outlay for some new ones might not be as bad as it initially looks.
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  • Mick uploaded a new video
    How cool is this...
    One lucky kid!
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  • Managed to scrounge half an hour on the cyclekart this evening. I laid out some string to take a look at what I needed to do to get the steering arms made up. The string helps to plot a line from the front steering pivots through the center of...
    Managed to scrounge half an hour on the cyclekart this evening. I laid out some string to take a look at what I needed to do to get the steering arms made up. The string helps to plot a line from the front steering pivots through the center of the rear axle. The steering arm pivots must fall on this line for the correct ackermann angles.

    I needed to make a curved arms so that on full lock the arms do not interfere with the front beam. I found some suitable flat bar from the scrap pile and set about bending it to make up a couple of arms. I used some heat on the inside of the bend to help 'shrink' the metal. This is better than applying heat to the outside of the bend which will 'stretch' the metal. Shrinking the metal in this way means that the metal is actually thicker on the inside of the bend, which makes it stronger. I also had to straighten it out a little on my bench anvil just to remove some minor kinks from the heating and bending.

    The arms will also need to be reinforced with a small gusset underneath to give it some added strength. I will also add a steering stop to prevent the wheel from touching the body, this will be a simple hard stop that the steering arm comes into contact with at the end of its movement. Hopefully I should be able to cut the flat bar in the middle of the bend and make an arm for the left and right sides.
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  • Finally got around to making a start on the rear axle. I worked out the length, cut the bar stock down and turned one end to size in the lathe. I still need to do the other end and cut some threads in the ends. The drive hub, bearings and wheel...
    Finally got around to making a start on the rear axle. I worked out the length, cut the bar stock down and turned one end to size in the lathe. I still need to do the other end and cut some threads in the ends. The drive hub, bearings and wheel hub now fit perfectly.

    I also made a start on the motor mount. I cut some plate to span between two cross members, this will support the motor. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to set up the chain drive. I rotated the torque converter downwards to see how the path of the chain was to the drive pulley, but it clashes with the cross member. Need to finalise this before I can move on. So slow progress, but progress none-the-less.
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  •   mainlinemick commented on this post about 1 year ago
    Forgot to post about this. I found some cool looking gauges when I was having a sort through some parts the other day. They came supplied with another project I bought. I'm not going to use them on the other project as they don't really fit with...
    Forgot to post about this. I found some cool looking gauges when I was having a sort through some parts the other day. They came supplied with another project I bought. I'm not going to use them on the other project as they don't really fit with the style, but I think they will look great on the cyclekart. Might even try and hook up the speedo.
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  •   mainlinemick commented on this post about 1 year ago
    Did a bit more on the cyclekart yesterday. Managed to get the front wheels fitted up. I made up some 20mm spacers on the lathe to space the wheel out a little from the pivot so that the hub did not bind when the wheels were turned. I also had to...
    Did a bit more on the cyclekart yesterday. Managed to get the front wheels fitted up. I made up some 20mm spacers on the lathe to space the wheel out a little from the pivot so that the hub did not bind when the wheels were turned. I also had to add a spacer to the outside of the wheel as the bolts I used were a little too long. I pressed the new bearings into the hubs and mounted the wheels up.

    I checked the steering range, which seems fine, although I will lose a little of this when it is finally connected up. Next is to finalise the rear axle location so that I can determine the correct ackermann angle for the steering arm geometry.

    I also took delivery of the 6mm broach that I ordered. This is for broaching the keyways into the rear hubs. Now I have no excuses not to get the rear axle finished (although I've actually ordered some different bearings ).

    Also spent a bit of time trying to figure out the correct dimensions and proportions for the layout. I'm about 80% with that.

    The kids showed a bit of interest too, which was cool. I think that now it has some wheels on it and it's on the stands they can visualise it a bit better. They were both keen to try it out. I'll also confess that I did too
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  • Worked up the enthusiasm to do something for the cyclekart project this evening.

    I've been selling off some stuff to try and clear some space in the garage. One of the main aims was to clear enough space to get the cyclekart chassis up on some...
    Worked up the enthusiasm to do something for the cyclekart project this evening.

    I've been selling off some stuff to try and clear some space in the garage. One of the main aims was to clear enough space to get the cyclekart chassis up on some trestles and get the motor mounting and rear axle sorted out. So tonight I managed to clear enough space to get the chassis up and at a nice height to work on.

    With the chassis up in the air, I offered the engine and rear drive sprocket up on the chassis only to realise that the rear cross brace is in the way. I will probably have to remove, move or modify the rear cross brace on the chassis as it clashes with the drive sprocket. This is as a result of using a slightly shorter chassis rail than the plans specified. I did this so that I could get two side rails from the standard length of RHS.

    It's no big drama really. I've still got plenty of welding on do on the chassis as I need to make and weld in the remainder of the cross bracing for the floor and underside so I will figure something out for the rear section.

    I also think I need to get a side profile of my tribute car sorted out so that I can scale the dimensions and figure out where I need to put the bulkheads and top cowl support loops. Getting the proportions right is going to be important.

    But whilst talking and thinking about what I need to do is all very well, I still need to find the time to actually do some work proper. The only actual work I did tonight was to flip the bearings in their holders so that the collars were on the 'outside'.

    Hopefully now that I have it in a position where I can actually do some work I will now be able to grab the odd hour here and there and make some progress.
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  • Been a bit too sidetracked by Christmas and other things to get any progress on the project. I did manage to do a few little jobs, but no major progress since picking up the wheels.

    I picked up some 6mm end mills and M25 nuts + nylocks the other...
    Been a bit too sidetracked by Christmas and other things to get any progress on the project. I did manage to do a few little jobs, but no major progress since picking up the wheels.

    I picked up some 6mm end mills and M25 nuts + nylocks the other day, which means that I now have no excuse not to finish off my rear axle. When I say 'finish off the axle' I actually mean somehow turn the length of 1" steel I bought into something that more resembles an axle. I need ot machine 6mm slots for the keyways and turn threads on the ends for holding the wheels on. I also picked up some bolt on axle collars which I *think* I might use as the inner location for the wheels. What I overlooked with the axle / wheel setup is that a 25mm shaft with a 25mm hub has no shoulder against which the hub can sit, so the axle clamps should hopefully solve this oversight. I assume that this is how they are set up on go karts.

    I still have to figure out a few details on how to bolt everything up but I'll probably just wing it like usual. What can go wrong?

    I really need to have a clearout of the workshop to create some space to get the kart up on trestles so that I can work on it. At the moment there is zero space. Time to move some stuff on.
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  • Picked up the wheels today, very stoked with how they have come out. I had the rims blasted and powder-coated in satin black and then had some new tyres fitted. The wheels have been the most expensive part of the build so far, but then there are...
    Picked up the wheels today, very stoked with how they have come out. I had the rims blasted and powder-coated in satin black and then had some new tyres fitted. The wheels have been the most expensive part of the build so far, but then there are four of them and I had refurbishment costs on top of the purchase cost of the rims and tyres. I'm not entirely sure if I have ended up saving money by going down the path that I have, which was my original goal, but none-the-less, I'm very happy with the final outcome, as to me they look more 'vintage' than new or shiny wheels would have.

    For anyone else sourcing rims, I think that the cheapest option is probably to start off by purchasing better condition rims with good usable tyres to avoid the refurb and tyre replacement costs but it might take a while to find two pairs for a reasonable price, and then there's always the risk that you are going to end up with miss-matched tyres. I could have probably shopped around and got some cheaper tyres or ordered some online and got them fitted locally, but it was convenient to use Don and such convenience has a cost.

    New 17" rims with knobbly tyres are about AU$180 on ebay, but those are moto-x fronts and not postie bike rims and so have knobbly tyres and a bit more of a modern look to them. It does look like some of the fellas in the US are using these however so they are another option.

    So if you're just getting into collecting parts for your build, wheels are going to be the big ticket item so it is worthwhile keeping in eye on Gumtree ads or finding someone who parts out postie bikes.

    So what was the cost? Here's the final tally (excluding my machining work)

    $50 - Initial purchase price (Gumtree)
    $80 - Blasting and powder coating (Aluminium hubs were wet blasted)
    $125 - Supply and fit tyre (including valve / rim tape + spoke repairs)

    In total this has worked out at $255 per rim.

    I used Associated Gritblasters in Edwardstown for the blasting and powder coating. 83741979. They came under recommendation and I was not disappointed. I'll definitely get the chassis and suspension parts done there when I'm ready. It's worth noting that they have a surcharge for EFTpos so cash is king with these fellas.

    Don at DC Motorcycles sourced and fitted the tyres as well as fixed some broken spokes. He's in Marion. 83775566
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  • Mick replied to a discussion, Chassis design plans
    Some more plans courtesy of Steve Vinson

    69175787_981872908828427_3329609066203840512_n.jpg 70092368_981872938828424_1150306277545476096_n.jpg 69999082_981872962161755_3801471134168252416_n.jpg
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  • Got the front suspension kinda mounted up. I welded on the front spring hangers and made up some keeper plates for the U-Bolts. I did a bit of a test fit (even though I didn't get to finish the rear hangers) it looks pretty good and also looks...
    Got the front suspension kinda mounted up. I welded on the front spring hangers and made up some keeper plates for the U-Bolts. I did a bit of a test fit (even though I didn't get to finish the rear hangers) it looks pretty good and also looks like the axle line is higher than the centre of the chassis, which is great as it means that I can mount the rear axle above the chassis to help get the C of G down lower.

    To mount the springs up I had to fabricate some eyelet bushes. I decided to make these from some rubber radiator hose and a metal spacer. It's not the most elegant of solutions, but should work okay. If I come across some urethane bar stock I'll make some new ones but I recon these will do just fine.

    I need to make up some steel spacers to weld into the chassis rail to take the rear spring hanger pivot bolts. The rear spring hangers need to be bolted in relatively tightly as any play will result in the spring flopping around and a loose front axle. Given that this is 1930's technology we are playing with, it can use all of the help it can get. Handling is expected to be poor at best.

    The rear spring hangers have been cut, I just need to profile the ends and drill a couple of holes, then that's it for the front suspension.


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  • Managed to scrape half an hour on the cyclekart this arvo.

    I pressed the old bearings out of the front hub on one of the wheels. Well I tried to drift them out but there was no purchase on the inside so I ended up punching the seals and bearings...
    Managed to scrape half an hour on the cyclekart this arvo.

    I pressed the old bearings out of the front hub on one of the wheels. Well I tried to drift them out but there was no purchase on the inside so I ended up punching the seals and bearings out of one side so tat I could get a drift to them. The new bearings are a perfect fit (6202.2RS Bearing - 35x16x11)

    I note that the shaft is a little longer than it really needs to be. This was simply the only 5/8" UNF bolt that my local hardware store had in stock so that's what I ended up with. I need to turn down some spacers to get it to fit properly. Need to figure out the wheel spacing from the king pin. It seems logical to me to have it as close as possible, but need to confirm this. Aesthetically they would look better a little spaced out but will see.

    The only other thing I managed to get done was drilling some holes in the spring hanger brackets. I also spent a bit of time searching for something suitable to make spring bushes from. I think some rubber radiator hose and a spacer will do the job. Just need to find or make a suitable spacer.



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  • Mick unlocked the badge Journalist
    Journalist
    Loves browsing photos. To unlock this badge, you need to browse more than 150 photos on the site.
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  • Managed to get a few hours this arvo to finish off the front beam and suspension, I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

    The leaf springs needed the leaves tying together. I think that normally they are drilled and pinned but as the springs I...
    Managed to get a few hours this arvo to finish off the front beam and suspension, I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

    The leaf springs needed the leaves tying together. I think that normally they are drilled and pinned but as the springs I made are only 1" wide I decided not to drill them for fear of weakening them too much. Instead I ran a bead of weld along the outside to hold the leaves together. I then bent some flat bar around the spring to both cover the weld and hold the spring together. I think they've come out pretty good, I'm very happy with them. To finish them off I welded up the eyes on the end to give them some extra strength.

    The beam and kingpin mountings that I had made previously just needed to be welded together. To do this I had to set everything out so that the kingpins had some castor angle and a little bit of camber. The caster angle is what helps the steering return to the centre and a little bit of camber helps with grip.

    After laying everything out on the welding bench and setting the angles I tacked everything together before welding it up. I added some spring perches to the bottom of the beam to allow the springs to sit correctly. The width of the chassis puts the springs directly on the edge of the lower bends on the front beam, which would have made them impossible to bolt on properly. So to fix this I welded some small lengths of angle iron so that they sit parallel to the ground. This give the springs a nice flat area to mount to.

    All I have to do now is make some keeper plates for the U bolts, turn down some bushes, weld the spring hanger brackets to the chassis and then I can get the beam mounted up. There's still the steering arms to sort out, but I will not be able to make those up until the rear axle is in place and the steering column has been made.

    When the front beam is mounted I will be able to see how the axle sits relative to the chassis, which will then tell me where I need to mount the rear axle. Would be good to finally get it on four wheels and rolling.

    There's a bunch more photos in the gallery if you are interested in how I made the beam and leaf spring.

     https://cyclekarts.com.au/build-pages/1-micks-cyclekart-build/albums/23-suspension-and-steering



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  • Managed to squeeze a few minutes build time in yesterday. Drew up some front spring hangers and made a few cardboard templates to figure out a design that I liked. This is what I ended up with. Now I just need to make another three.
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  • Had a bit of time this arvo so decided to take a look at the front spindles today. The basic design uses 5/8" UNF bolts for the spindles along with 6202.2 bearings. The bolts are generally welded to some pipe or tube which pivot on a high tensile...
    Had a bit of time this arvo so decided to take a look at the front spindles today. The basic design uses 5/8" UNF bolts for the spindles along with 6202.2 bearings. The bolts are generally welded to some pipe or tube which pivot on a high tensile bolt or pin. Pretty basic stuff really. You can of course buy these, but as I like to make things, that's what I did.

    I decided to make the vertical links out of 1" bright bar to fit the M12 high tensile bolts that I'm using for the king pins (plus I already had a length of this that I bought to make the rear axle from). By making them to fit I could ensure that there was minimal play in the king pin, and I could also machine them to length so that they fitted perfectly within the hangars I had previously made.

    I set the length so that two thrust washers would fit above the vertical link. These washer will help reduce friction and make the steering a little easier to turn.

    After stamping the hangers and vertical links with 'L' & 'R' so I knew which one went where, I then cranked up the TIG and welded them up. Hopefully they are strong enough.

    Next up I need to drill out the hangers for the king pins and weld some retaining tabs to the pivot bolts to retain them in position. I'll also add some grease zerks so that they can be lubricated, once I've figured out the range of movement.
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  • Managed to get the tyres off of one of the wheels. I tried (and failed) to do it the old fashioned way with tyre levers as I don't have the strength in my arms any more. In the end I cut the bead with some bolt croppers and cut the rubber with a...
    Managed to get the tyres off of one of the wheels. I tried (and failed) to do it the old fashioned way with tyre levers as I don't have the strength in my arms any more. In the end I cut the bead with some bolt croppers and cut the rubber with a sharp knife. Work smarter, not harder as they say.

    With the tyre removed I could finally mount one of the wheels up on the lathe to check if it fitted. Fortunately there was a few mm to spare. With the wheel mounted in the chuck it was only a few minutes work to face the hub off and remove the spigot so that the hub flange I made sits nice and flat. I'm pretty happy with how it has turned out.

    I still have the other hub and wheel to finish off. Then I can look at making the front hubs up

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